The Dilemma of Dietary Fats

The good, the bad and the trans.

Oreo lovers can thank Stephen Joseph for making their favorite cookies even better. Joseph, an attorney and founder of BanTransFats.com, filed a lawsuit against Kraft Foods in 2003 to ban the marketing of Oreo Cookies to children in the State of California until the snack giant removed all trans fat from the treat. When the former Washington D.C. lobbyist was asked, why Oreo and why Kraft? Joseph said, “We couldn’t sue everybody. It was sufficient to establish the point (the dangers of trans fat) using the Oreo.”

His point was well taken. One day after media coverage about the lawsuit began, Kraft announced its agreement to reduce or eliminate the trans fat in Oreos. In the end, it took Kraft 100,000 hours of research and development manpower to reformulate their approximately 650 products.

Satisfied ­ for the moment ­ Joseph dropped the lawsuit. He then petitioned the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for a new labeling law that would tell the public how much of this artery-clogging fat was in snacks parents regularly fed to their children.

As a result, as of Jan. 1, 2006, the FDA now requires that all packaged foods with 0.5 grams or more of trans fat per serving say so on the label alongside cholesterol and saturated fat amounts. If the amount is less than o.5 grams, the product may be labeled “zero trans fat.” (More on this anomaly later.)

Trans fixed

The New York Times refers to the trans fat furor as “the panic du jour,” as advocates claim that anything is better than trans fat, likening them (inaccurately) to toxic substances like asbestos. Although there’s no need to panic, people like Joseph have a sound basis for their crusade. The FDA estimates that 2,100 to 5,600 lives are lost each year because of the lack of trans fat labeling.

Understanding the differences between trans fat and other fats creates the best line of defense for health-conscious consumers.

Oil change

Manufacturers’ use of trans fats resulted from efforts to avoid using saturated fats such as palm oil, which, ironically, manufacturers are now using to replace trans fats.

Trans fat (aka “trans fatty acids”) results from a process called “hydrogenation,” in which manufacturers add hydrogen to vegetable oil, thereby creating a solid fat from a liquid oil. Hydrogenation increases the shelf life of crispy and creamy snack products and adds flavor stability to foods containing these fats.

The majority of trans fat is found in vegetable shortenings, margarine, crackers, cookies, snack foods and other foods made with or fried in “partially hydrogenated oils.” (Although most of the trans fat consumed comes from packaged foods, small amounts occur naturally in beef, pork, lamb and in the butterfat in butter and milk; but they do not have the negative health impact of the man-made versions.)

And while saturated fat’s reputation for raising bad cholesterol (low-density lipoprotein or LDL) is well documented, the negative effects of trans fat takes this issue a step further. Trans fats double the punch by simultaneously lowering good cholesterol (high-density lipoprotein or HDL) while raising levels of the artery-clogging LDL cholesterol. This makes trans fat-laden cookies more of a potential health menace than a plate of greasy bacon. In addition, trans fat may also contribute to an increased risk of diabetes and Alzheimer’s disease.

Consumers are stuck between a rock and hard place, as neither trans fat or saturated fat are desirable options. Currently, Americans consume four to five times as much saturated fat as trans fat. However, add together trans fat, high cholesterol and saturated fat, as found in a typical fast-food meal, and you have all the makings of the proverbial heart-attack-on-a-plate.

Fast fat

Although the new labeling law will increase consumer awareness of trans fats in packaged foods, no trans fat labeling exists for most fast foods (although this will soon change). In fact, foods high in trans fats, such as french fries and doughnuts, can be advertised as “cholesterol-free” and “cooked in vegetable oil,” conveniently leaving out that nasty trans fats info. One doughnut at breakfast (3.2 grams of trans fats) and a large order of fries at lunch (6.8 grams) adds 10 grams of trans fats.

Specific intake recommendations from government dietary organizations are somewhat vague. The Institute of Medicine recommends keeping trans fat intake “as low as possible;” the 2005 Dietary Guidelines recommends a trans intake of less than 1% of calories ­ or 2 grams in an 1,800-calorie diet. This amount would naturally be present in a diet that includes meat and dairy foods. The FDA recommends lumping together trans and saturated fats, keeping the combined total to 20 grams a day or less than 10% of total calories.

In response to another of Joseph’s lawsuits, fast-food giants are paying the price for failure to keep up with the new demand for trans-fat-free food. McDonald’s switched from beef tallow, a saturated fat, to partially hydrogenated soybean oil, a trans fat, in 1990, when the health detriments of saturated fat became public. The fast-food chain reported it would change its oil again in 2002 but failed to do so. This lack of follow-through cost the company $8.5 million for “inadequately publicizing the delay.” The company agreed to pay the American Heart Association $7 million and agreed to spend another $1.5 million to inform the pubic of its trans fat plans.

Alternatives and best choices

Cycling back from partially hydrogenated fat to saturated fat enables manufacturers to claim “zero” trans fat, but the big fat problem still exists. Saturated fat, found predominantly in animal products and “tropical oils” like coconut oil, palm oil and palm kernel oil, remains the No. 1 dietary cause of high blood cholesterol. The American Heart Association recommends a saturated fat intake of 7% to 10% or less of total calories each day.

Monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fats are healthier options. These oils include corn, canola, olive, safflower, soybean and sunflower. Consuming polyunsaturated oils in place of saturated fats can lower the risk of heart disease by reducing the LDL, or “bad” cholesterol, levels in the blood.

Olive oil, a monounsaturated oil found in abundance in the Mediterranean Diet, is believed to play a role in the low levels of heart disease found on the Greek island of Crete. Although the diet exceeds the American Heart Association’s recommendation of 30% of total daily fat calories, Cretans have one-third less cancer than Americans. The Greeks’ consumption of cold water fish several times a week, limited intake of red meat and an abundance of fresh fruits and vegetables in the diet also contribute to their overall healthier lifestyle.

Labeling confusion

Two final notes: Just because a label reads “trans fat free” doesn’t mean it’s 100% free from the stuff. Stephen Joseph calls this a “major loophole” in the labeling law that’s confusing and misleading to consumers. “Trans-fat free” refers to less than 0.5 grams, so a product containing 0.4 grams can legally state “zero trans fat.” Joseph says, “A number of servings of these 0.4 trans fat products throughout the day ­ which is easy to do ­ can add up to a substantial amount of trans fat.” His website receives so many e-mails about this labeling confusion that he’s set up the answer on an auto responder.

Lastly, keep in mind that all fats and oils contribute a concentrated source of calories to one’s daily intake. A tablespoon of polyunsaturated oil may be a healthier choice than a tablespoon of lard, but both contain approximately 100 calories of pure fat ­ and those calories add up fast. If you eat a diet rich in fresh fruits, vegetables and whole grains, and exercise regularly, an occasional Oreo won’t hurt. Anymore.